Cultural Experience No. 1

I have been in Dhaka for four days now and there are few other things that shock and awe me more about this culture than the traffic. I have never seen anything like it and it is quite possibly the first thing you get thrown into when you get here. Why you ask?...Because you have to leave the airport at sometime and thus perpetual adventure begins.

So the traffic here is like a demolition derby. You can easily tell which cars have been the "winners" and which the "losers" by the number of marks, bumps, scratches or shotty paint jobs to cover it all up. Many cars are equipped with a gnarly chrome ramming bumper for just that extra bit of reinforcement. It's protection for the inevitable collision, a wise choice. I'm assuming there are rules to the road, or at least that's what I've been told but the only universal rule that seems to apply is that if there is space, fill it. I have never seen a better demonstration of controlled chaos. I haven't witnessed any accidents yet; this system seems to get people to where they're going, inefficiently, but they at least eventually get there.

I have to credit the Bangladeshi culture for adequately using their horns, not just to show their discontent for each other like us lovely Americans do on the roads, but to simply let every other person around them know that their car is present and has joined the party.  Common motivations for horn honking appear to be "move out of the way", "I'm about to enter this intersection without stopping" or the  frequently used "I'm driving my car into the space your car is currently occupying so you should move it immediately". They're not shy about it either. The incessant honking is like a painfully orchestrated symphony that sets the tone for the entire city.

I can't really determine if there is one side of the road that you're supposed to drive on. I've been driven successfully on both sides and have watched most cars weave back and forth. Driving against traffic happens often and is quite exciting.  Like I said if there's space, they find a way to manuever their cars, large or small into it. Driving in Dhaka is pure talent and from my first impressions, also insanity. This is clearly not a place for timid drivers.  

To add to the chaos, there are an abundance of rickshaws, CNGs (they look like little three-wheeled mobile cages) and pedestrians all of which contribute to the high volume on the roads. Each of these elements somehow navigates the traffic well enough to get to where they are going and not incur fatal bodily damage. Walking around has been quite the thrill seeking adventure given that if there are sidewalks there's usually some sort of barrier that makes utilizing them inefficient, impossible or more of a danger than walking on the road itself. If you're unaccustomed to walking around in large cities, I suggest practicing in one before coming to Dhaka. Walking down the middle of the street in Time Square would be good practice for Dhaka. In preparation, I think it would also be good to simply have one of your friends drive a car at least 25 mph in your direction and practice getting out of the way quickly. 

If you are unwilling to risk being hit by a car, rickshaw or other person, you're better off staying inside or having someone else drive you around. You have to operate like the cars; if there's space, fill it and do so with your easily breakable body with no chrome bumper attached to it. When attempting to cross the street, you get a one to two second time frame to react when you see a window of space between vehicles. If you act too early or too late, at best you'll receive the angriest honk of your life, at worst you'll get hit. You really have to commit to crossing the street. I've never walked with such conviction.  I sometimes feel like a super heroine with super refined cat-like senses because my eyes are watching the car driving at me while my ears are listening for the horns or bells while my legs are walking and my neck is swiveling and eyes are darting all around in super awareness mode. At the same time, your body is flexed and ready to absorb the impact of any unforseen components of traffic. Given that description I must look absolutely ridiculous trying to cross the street but hey I haven't gotten hit yet.

I've really enjoyed attempting to navigate the streets of Dhaka and I feel that this post is a testament to my evolving ability to navigate them successfully. It has definitely been a thrilling cultural experience. While walking in Dhaka does seem dangerous, I would argue that this city has some of the best drivers I have ever seen. And, most importantly, they're not texting while driving, so you have to feel a little bit safer about that.